Wuhan, check; next stop, Changsha

The past couple of days have been slightly uneventful so I’ll pass over them. Well, I did go to the house of the boss here (whose husband hosted the get-the-foreigner-good-‘n’-sauced dinner) for dinner. We had a choice of 10 dishes, a delicious German beer, and a Swiss cigar. That guy lives it up and is bathing in the spoils of capitalism. Me, I’m a lefty for the most part, but I would be lying to you if I said I didn’t enjoy nice things. If I sound like a conundrum, I would whole-heartedly agree with you.

Tomorrow morning, in what will be a personal record land pace; I’ll be departing from Wuhan. Although I’m not sad about leaving Wuhan in the least bit in lieu of getting closer to Jishou, I literally mean I’ll be going at a speed the MIllenium Falcon might find familiar. Lei Lei and I will be taking the new high speed train to Changsha that will reach speeds of nearly 200 mph! Can you dig it? http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Wuhan–Guangzhou_High-Speed_Railway

Tonight however I will have to bear through another amazingly gracious and wonderful dinner at a great restaurant with Lei Lei parents. Oh the agony! (wink) [Side note: Over the past 2-4 years, I’ve lost a small inter-tube around my mid-section due to running, drinking less beer and soda and eating better, but the air is starting to return to the depleted space in rapid fashion. I can’t help it though. Two reasons: Chinese food is notorious for not making you feel full. And two, it is so unimaginably delicious!] No, not another get-the-foreigner-drunk dinner I wouldn’t expect, but who knows, the Chinese are full of wonderful, and sometimes not such wonderful surprises. Examples of surprises: Good Surprises-Never ending generosity and consideration for a foreigner (dinners, small gifts, and the like. Bad Surprises-Ever changing plans with little or no warning….ever; more intestinal dishes (I can eat that stuff, and I like fried intestine quite well, but enough with ordering the stomach, liver, etc. at every meal!)

Connections are abundant and an integral part of life in China. (And so it seems for me in the past year as most all my close friends were made in Seattle through connections-Thank you!) For Changsha, I not only have a wonderful escort to go with me, but a random connection named Steve, another connection Jin Mengmeng, and the English teacher in charge of foreign teacher(s?) from my future school in Jishou will be there for dinner. If a potential night of ganbei-ing (remember? “dry glass”) looks as though it is forming, I will HAVE to decline. The day after I have a medical exam in Changsha which who knows could all entail? This is undoubtedly going to be a memorable experience. For those who know me well, I don’t particularly like the doctor, or needles. I don’t faint, they don’t hurt, I just don’t like the idea of a piece of metal being inserted into a vein and removing me and the millions of bacteria and such that share the space. I have a particular talent for getting myself worked up in marginal situations, so come Friday morning, I will undoubtedly be sweating double from the heat and my mind jumping to fantastic conclusion about what will happen to me in the hospital. Although I read a blog (really showing how paranoid I am) that isn’t nearly as bad as one could expect. And to be honest, I’ve never had an EKG, and that could be cool.

Map of locations I discussed to give you an idea of where I will be going. http://maps.google.com/maps/ms?msa=2&utm_campaign=en&utm_source=en-ha-na-us-google-mm&utm_medium=ha

Wuhan and the welcoming of the weiguoren (foreigner)

Aug 19th-25th, 2010

Welcome to Wuhan, one of the three furnaces of China. Temps are reaching into mid to high 90s and I was told this is somewhat cool for the time of year… I am working (volunteering) at the Education Advancement Fund International (EAFI) for a week or so until I leave for Jishou where I will be teaching for the next 10 months.

I studied a fair amount about Chinese Culture in college and was always interested in the welcoming dinner for a foreigner, especially when it dealt with business. After the first night of work, a fellow worker, David (his real, Chinese name is Jiang Ye) said we would go eat with the boss tonight. Ms. He is a furious worker but seems quite calm; I wasn’t expecting what was just around the corner…

David, another worker affectionately named Hacker, and I arrived at a fancy restaurant to find the boss, Ms. He, her husband and 6 other people waiting for us with a grandiose assortment of food on the table. Ms. He’s husband then showed us a bottle of what looked to be very expensive imported vodka. He then pulled out a couple of bottle of a German beer and some other Chinese beer that he had brought to the restaurant. Before we began eating he also handed out cigarettes for all. I was later told they are the most famous cigarettes in China and cost around 20 dollars a pack, IN CHINA! Chinese culture is about giving the best to guests. Tradition also does not allow for “passing” on a cigarette or alcohol. Well I suppose I could have passed on the cigarettes as it is acceptable if you don’t smoke, but I thought what the hell, go for the experience of it all! Mr. He then began pouring the vodka, and when the 5 of us who were drinking had all received a small glass, he stood up and gave a short toast. One of many until the bottle was gone. In the mean time we began eating but every minute or so, it was time for another cheers, or ganbei, literally meaning “dry glass.” The beer was gone from the sack that Mr. He had transported them in, so he ordered more….and more. Everyone around the table was feeling a little warm; the conversation grew louder as did the smiles. My mom had jokingly asked me if I was an alcoholic while I was back in Bismarck before leaving for China, but in reality my hyper-socializing was merely training for this event. I mentioned it is unacceptable to refuse cigarettes or alcohol at the table, but there is more to it. These events are not held off until all the work is done, or the weekend has arrived. The night is a celebration and lasts into the evening, yet everyone is expected to be at work the next day, no matter what. I didn’t get sick, miraculously, and despite feeling a little nauseated throughout the morning, with a little green tea, I made it through the day unscathed. Success! Oh yeah, the food. Eel is amazing, save the vertebrae that you have to spit out.

The days continue to be warm and I’m inevitably coming down with a small illness, feels like a bright and sunny-colored-fever of some sort. I was sure it would come eventually, but really, this soon… This afternoon, Kate’s niece Lei Lei (Kate is the director/co-founder of EAFI, who recruited me for the teaching position) met with my colleagues for a night of sightseeing along the Yangtz River, and dinner at a small restaurant. Tomorrow, Sunday we will take the day off from work (these guys have been working 7 days week normally) to go with Lei Lei to a silent film with sound (it will be in Chinese, sans subtitles) and to go to explore the “snack street.” I am looking forward to the movie to get a break from trying to use my awful Chinese, and also to take a break from having to listen to my fellow worker David tell me everything that comes to mind as to practice his English. Example: David: Yelllow Stone Park, Me: uh, yeah? D: *Shoulder shrug* ( If I sound like a jerk, I can be, or maybe just sensitively irritable at times, but I am also tired from the transition over here. I am tired all day and awake each morning before the sun has decided to show its light, unable to fall back asleep. I am also not used sleeping on what is essentially a board with a thick sheet laid over it… David is really nice, and has taken wonderful care of me while I am here, so I should speak so poorly of him. He is a great person who only wants to be social and improve his English. Sorry, tangent end.) “Snack Street” promises to be a carnival of foods served up on a stick or on a small plate that will surely involve all parts of most any animal available. I need to learn how to say dog before we go as to not order it. I will eat most anything, chickens feet, organs whatever, but dog, nah, I’ll try to pass.

Sunday

We woke up early enough for a day off and headed out on what was to be a 2 hour journey across the Yangtze River, to Computown, six stories of anything and everything to do with electronics. We spent 2 hours trying to fix David's Blackberry, but he ended up having to be a new anyhow. (Side Note: Phones are crazy expensive in China, while plans for unlimited 3g is less than a dollar, as is caller I.D.) We then went to “snack street”(not as extravagant as I imagined it to be, like the ones in Beijing) for some meat on a stick, and then to a restaurant for lunch in classic Hubei Provincial cuisine. Again, ate way too much, but loved every second of the food. The conversation wasn’t too interesting though, well it sounded interesting, I just didn’t understand it…

After lunch we went to the Expendables, the movie. I didn’t need subtitles to know the premise as I am confident in saying all blockbuster, Hollywood films are exactly the same. I also felt like it was American propaganda as the “good guys” took care of the evil doers in classic stereotyping. The movie didn’t have previews, or credits, just a hunch, but I would guess that it could have been pirated. After the movie we met back up with David who had had to go back to Computown to get his “new” Blackberry fixed (yes, the one he just bought hours earlier). We then went to a Sichuan Hotpot (Different from the Mongolian Hotpot in Beijing as the liquid to boil the food is one side rich pork broth, the other hot chili oil and spices. Unlike in a specific Seattle restaurant where they give you only meat and cabbage, we ordered thin sliced beef, lamb and meatballs, but also, kelp, mushrooms, cabbage, potatoes, two types of tofu, noodles and some other greens I don’t know the name of. Another meal in which I should have stayed away from the spice a little and stopped eating long before the food was gone. Send more Tums!

Afterwards we walked down to the boardwalk along the river to enjoy the cool weather (very relative, ~80-85 degrees) and work off a little of the meal. Along the river is an open space where people are doing one of three things. People watching, a game where you whip what is essentially a big top to keep it spinning, or dancing to a choreographed steps blaring from the speakers. The night in Wuhan is when things come alive. During the day it’s simply too hot to do anything that isn’t essential. We also sat for a while along the river bank staring back to the other side of Wuhan (Hankou) and the wide river that we would cross later on a river boat. I feel like a poet or a philosopher when I travel. My senses are heightened and I’m constantly thinking about how people are living their lives, and how I (will) live mine. I feel like I am in a new world, and don’t quite know what will come of things, but I am beginning to think I will be fine making this my home for the next year.

My first couple days in China: Beijing

The double decker 747 chased the sun from MSP to Japan as the plane landed just after dusk in Narito. Sleep, no; food, too much; wine, not enough. The flight was nice, save the woman’s feet that crept into the space between my arm rest and internal wall of the vessel. Countless efforts to make it known that they were not welcome failed. It didn’t really matter anyhow.

Beijing was a welcome and comfortable sight. So was the scent. So were the sights. The stacking ability for commercial trucks in China could one day capture a record. I was also reminded of the best way to cool oneself down in sticky summer nights, elevating the shirt to just under the breast as to let the tummy show, is an effective means to gain relief from the balmy temps. Mrs. Luo drove me to the hotel where we met her husband and Ms. Ma, a student who let us through the gate of the complex and helped carry some luggage. After receiving instructions on how to turn on the water heater for a much needed shower, and instructions to the air conditioning unit, in the sweltering room, my hosts left me to sleep. After essentially “pulling and all-nighter” one might think my eyelids would drop faster than my head to the pillow. The fact is though we ate a breakfast just before arriving in Tokyo, and my body felt the need to stay awake. After a short read I rested. I slept for a while, but continued to stir throughout the night for a full 6 hours before I was to meet with Mrs. Luo’s family again. I gave up and decided to organize my luggage that had been frantically packed in a few short minutes for what will be a year away from everything familiar.

Mr. Wang, Mrs. Luo’s husband, arrived promptly at 9:30 to take me to their house two blocks away for breakfast. We picked up some highly anticipated baozi (steamed buns with meat and sauce in the center) for breakfast. Accompanied with a wet rice and warm milk from an air-sealed container, Harrison, their son, and I furiously ate. Lunch came soon after at a simple, but classic restaurant. My first new phrase was also learned at the restaurant, grace a Harrison. Wo bao le, I’m full. Never will a foreigner in the company of such gracious host ever go hungry. However, I probably should have gone with the bulk supply of Tums. There weren’t any decorations on the wall in the restaurant so the staff and other guests decided I would be acceptable for the eyes’ entertainment. Better get used to it I suppose. I really don’t mind, but can I return the long looks? Tonight we will all go for dinner with some of their friends for what I am told is a classic Beijing specialty. Something about boiling and lamb maybe. For now though, Harrison and his mother decided I needed a nap at my hotel. I think they have appointments, or maybe I just look really tired, and that is ok with me, I am.

Dinner:

Ah yes, the good ol’ Mongolian Hotpot. A circle table with a gas fire in the middle to heat up the water in which all the food is to be prepared. Mrs. Luo and her family and I met with a newlywed couple for the dinner. Her English name was Angela, and his, Mark. I gave him the name Mark, he said it was a good name, but I think he was disappointed. I don’t blame, it was my first time giving someone an English name, maybe I should have called him Oliver, that might have been better. The first entrée was soup. An organ soup: liver, intestine, stomach in a tan broth. All elements of the concoction were a bit salty and definitely a bit chewy. It tasted ok, but as I chewed, it was difficult not to be a little bit disgusted with the idea of the content. It wasn’t too bad but I didn’t finish it, there was lamb to be eaten! Along with lamb, some meatballs, potatoes, cabbage and greens were thrown into the mix; all served up with a bean paste sauce and a peanut sauce. Mr. Wang and Mrs. Luo were sure to give me all the fixings for the sauce: onions, herbs and, of course, hot chili oil. My brother said that he thinks I will gain 5 pounds in China, A. he does not understand Chinese culture, or B. he has made a dramatic shift to conservatism. The Chinese people are like your grandmother who can’t stop asking if you need more food. However this has now been extended into the younger generations and past food. Mr. Wang and Mrs. Luo’s son, Harrison, embodies this. He couldn’t understand how I could have fun without video games or T.V. Rather than accepting this fact, he gave me a video game for my computer. I only have a few hundred gb left on my hard drive, so I will most likely need to delete it soon, just in case I take some pictures and want them on my computer.

My last day in Beijing was filled with more king-like treatment. For lunch I learned and helped cook a simple Chinese lunch. We made shrimp, veggies, and a slow cooked pork dish. A simple soup of water, egg, tomatoes, salt and chicken flavoring topped off the meal.

That night, before scurrying off to the train station we met with Ms. Luo’s friend, Jin. The restaurant was decent, it had 5 stars under the name in the hotel lobby, and we sat in a private room with several waiters always clearing and bringing new dishes out. Yeah, it was the luxe. I have no idea how much a place like this costs, but it was impeccable. I said thank you a million times, all replied to with a request to not thank them and how I was like their new son. Yes Midwesterners are nice, but the Chinese are truly hospitable to the 10^th degree.

Welcome to my world of narcissism

Welcome to my blog. I hope to share my thoughts, feelings and ideas about my life in China. I want to state clearly first off that I love China and the people who make up this exciting country. I also want to give a word of warning that some material will be unedited, this is my life, and that it may seem insensitive. I feel like I have some right to make a few jokes or point-out some things that are uncomfortable, un-enjoyable or just down-right hilarious. Keep in mind, I only say this because this is MY blog and MY thoughts. I don't encourage anyone to form opinions solely upon my inept thoughts. I do hope to inspire curiosity in a world that I will now begin to know on an intimate level.

For those who may not know, I will be teaching in Jishou (look it up on the internets) China for 10 months or so. I will be teaching oral English in a middle school with students who will undoubtedly embody every level of English except highly advanced. I have mentally prepared myself as much as possible of feelings of isolation and loneliness. I do however feel that this is an experience I can not pass up, and will continue to grow as a human of this pale blue dot in the coming months. I will try to update often and I highly encourage and appreciate your comments and discussion. Please "follow" the blog so I know who is watching. Thanks for reading.